Installing Shower Panels in an Alcove Shower Enclosure

Alcove showers are installed within an enclosed space with three walls. Usually there will be a tray or bath at the bottom and either a door or shower screen across the opening. Alcoves are a great option for installing panels as there are only 3 walls, so you can plan how to lay the panels, the corners will be consistent and there will be a clear area to allow for splashing. However, you can still run into issues if the walls aren’t square, tray isn’t level or you’re leaving joints to chance.

This guide will help you understand how to measure, how to lay the panels in the correct order, how to handle the tray junction and shower valve, and how to seal the panels to create a watertight shower.

Why Alcoves are Easier & What Can Go Wrong!

As there are 3 straight walls, you can plan how you are going to lay your panels. Most alcoves have 800-1000mm across the rear wall with 700-900mm on the side walls. In older houses and converted bathrooms they can vary a lot. A 1000mm standard panel will often be used to cover one panel on the rear wall. With the side walls often being one or cut panels.

However, the tricky areas can be hidden! Older plastered walls aren’t usually flat or plumb. The edges of the tray can be off by a couple of mm and the corners between walls may not be exactly 90 degrees. As panels are solid, they will show these issues in the joints.

Before purchasing your panels measure up your walls. Measure the top, middle and bottom of each wall to get the widths. Measure the height of each wall from each end. If your measurements aren’t consistent by a couple of mm then you’ll need to scribe or cut each panel to fit.

Preparation

Panels can only be as good as the surface they are going on. So before you start consider:

Is the surface in good condition? Old tiles, peeling paint and loose plaster should be tackled. Some panel systems can be bonded to existing sound tiles but some can’t, so check the manufacturers instructions.

Are the walls flat? Place a long straight edge against each wall. If there are slight dents or lumps (a couple of mm) this can be acceptable for thin flexible panels but rigid panels will need a flat surface.

Is the wall damp or has there been issues with leaking? You should investigate this issue. It will be harder to find the problem if you seal it behind the panel.

If the wall is bare or crumbling plaster then use a moisture resistant plasterboard or cement backer board to create a sound surface for wet areas.

Ensure the wall is clean and dry. Panels will stick best to a firm, non-greasy and non-silicone surface.

To see the difference in thickness, finishes and fixing options, look at our range of Floors To Walls Shower Panel. This will give you details of the product.

Panel Layout

There are a couple of logical ways to lay your panels. Depending on your room.

Rear wall first – Start by fitting your rear panel. Fit your side panels to finish against the edges of your rear panel. This is the most common way to fit panels. This will mean the joints are at the front of your shower and are easy to check and seal.

Side panels first – Fit your side panels first then slot your rear panel in between them. This can disguise an uneven rear wall but requires precise measuring as the rear panel will need to fit exactly into the space.

Most fitters will fit the panels in the first way. If you want a seamless look in the corners then use a corner trim or bond and seal the panels together. Ensure your panels are compatible with this. Some systems can only be fitted with a certain type of joint.

Try to avoid having a vertical joint where your shower head is. The joints that are directly in line with the shower spray are most likely to leak. A small adjustment can be made to your layout.

Tools & Materials

• You won’t need as much as you may think.
• Tape measure, spirit level & pencil.
• Fine toothed saw or jigsaw with fine blade.
• Drill with hole saw for your shower valve and pipework.
• Notched adhesive spreader if your panels require adhesive.
• Sealant gun & neutral cure sanitary silicone.
• Corner & edge trims if your panels require them.
• Masking tape, sharp knife & clean cloth.

Panels are often 2400mm tall. This works well for a standard height alcove with similar ceiling height. If your ceiling is shorter or taller than this then plan how to cut your panel from the top or bottom depending on your trims.

Panel Cutting & Dry Fitting

Cut each panel individually to fit your wall. Mark your cut on the back of your panel using a straight edge and pencil. Support the panel from both sides of your cut line whilst cutting.

Dry fit all your panels. Do not open your adhesive yet. Fit your panel in its final position and check there is a gap between your tray/floor, gap between your ceiling and how well it fits with your adjacent panel. Leave the expansion gap set by the manufacturer. Usually this will be covered by a trim.

Drill a pilot hole then use a hole saw that’s slightly larger than your pipe/valve spindle. If you make a tight hole in your rigid panel this can cause cracking when the room gets hot and cold. A little gap can easily be sealed with a collar or a bead of silicone.

Shower Valve & Fittings

Most alcoves will have your shower valve and rail fitted onto one of your side or back walls. Mark your valve positions on your card template then transfer these onto your panel. If you have an exposed mixer valve you will need to cut a hole for your pipe and fixing. The edge will be hidden by your cover plate.

If you have fittings already fitted measure from your tray edge to centre of your pipe. Then measure from the edge of your wall to centre of your pipe. Check against your marked panel. Double check your measurements. You cannot fix a hole in the wrong place.

Be careful when fitting concealed valves. These are fitted behind your wall so you will need a larger cut out. The plate should be able to be removed for servicing so do not bond it using a rigid adhesive.

Fixing Your Panels

Follow the adhesive instructions provided with your panels. Different adhesives will have different coverage and open times. If your panels are to be bonded apply your adhesive in the recommended pattern. Press your panel into place starting from the bottom. Secure with masking tape whilst the adhesive sets. Wipe off any excess immediately. Once the adhesive has set it will be difficult to clean from the decorative surface.

• Fit your rear panel first (most alcoves). Check the panels are flush and gap is even at the joints. Do not press any fittings/trims into the panel until the adhesive has set.
• If your panels are to be fixed with mechanical fixings then drill holes slightly larger than the screw shaft. This allows movement. Do not over tighten.

Sealing The Tray, Corners & Edges

This is where your shower will either stay dry for years or begin to leak behind your panels within a few months.

Use a neutral cure sanitary silicone. Apply to clean, dry surfaces. Use a profiling tool or gloved finger to shape your silicone. Seal the bottom of your panels to the tray, vertical corners and any gaps around your pipework and fittings. If your tray joint isn’t completely flat you will need to add extra silicone to the low spot. Do not fill a large gap with silicone. Fix the gap or fit a trim.

Allow the silicone to fully cure. Do not use your shower until the silicone has fully cured. If you use it too early the silicone may not bond properly. This often isn’t visible until your panel starts to lift.

If your shower has a door or screen fix the frame using the recommended fixings and silicone from your screen manufacturer. If you need to drill through your panel for your screen ensure you have the correct drill bit. Seal the hole. Otherwise your fixing will become a pathway for water.

Common Errors

• A few common errors will cause most callbacks.
• No checks to ensure your tray is level.
• Cutting all your panels to the same size. Walls aren’t parallel.
• Vertical joints directly behind shower head.
• No expansion gap between floor/ceiling.
• Sealing before adhesive has set. Panels can move.

If you’re still deciding on the wider look of your room then this Bathroom Renovation Ideas guide can help you decide how your alcove will fit into your bathroom.

Ordering & Advice

When ordering your panels mention the widths & heights of your walls, the size of your tray and the location of your valve. Ask if your panels will work with your wall surface and if you need any trims in your corners. Companies like Floors To Walls will usually be able to advise you on the correct size and fixings. Mention the alcove and they can advise. Ordering a sample will allow you to practice cutting and sealing a bead.

Top Tip!

Measure each wall individually. Ensure your tray is level. Dry fit all panels. Fit the rear wall first. Avoid joints in line with the spray. Use a neutral cure silicone on your tray and corners and allow to fully cure before first use. Alcoves can be very rewarding if you take your time to plan. Taking your time to measure will make a huge difference to your final result.