How to Install Wall Panels on a Timber Stud Wall

One of the easier surfaces to install wall panels on is a timber stud wall as long as you prepare the frame correctly. The frame provides a good solid structure to attach to, plus there is some space to accommodate pipework and insulation. However, there are some issues to consider. There may be slight alignment issues with the frame, plus using plasterboard can cause issues (not suitable for wet areas) and the timber will naturally move as it dries.

This guide will take you through the process step-by-step and explain where decisions will impact the outcome.

What is a Stud Wall?

Generally a stud wall will have a timber frame with vertical studs at 400mm/600mm centres. There will then also be a horizontal head plate and sole plate. The frame is usually covered by plasterboard on both sides, however some older or raw stud walls will just have the exposed stud.

How to Attach Panels

There are two options for attaching panels:

Directly to the boards. This means you will screw the plasterboard to the studs and then glue the panels onto the board. This is the most common method used in bathrooms.

Directly to the studs. Some systems, especially those with tongue and groove cladding profiles, can be attached to a batten or stud framework.

Check with your panel manufacturers guidelines. Some panels will only be suitable to attach to sealed plasterboard or moisture resistant plasterboard. Some will need a smooth flat surface within a tolerance.

Inspecting the Frame

Using a long spirit level or straight edge, press it against the wall at various heights and a couple of vertical lines. As panels are fitted to the surface you will often notice a slight dip in the frame causing a noticeable wave in the panels or gap in the joints.

Check for:

• Studs not aligned. Use a plane to shave down any high areas. Or use thin wood/plastic packers to fill in any low areas.
• Wet or loose timber. Anything that has been wet will need to be dried out. If it is soft then replace. Do not panel over any suspected wet timber.
• No Noggins. Horizontal timber between the studs to give you somewhere to attach to at the correct height. Especially where you will have a shower mixer, shelf or towel rail.
• Pipework and cables in the cavity. Take note of the location so you don’t accidentally drill into them.
• If building the wall yourself, add noggins at the height you know you will need extra attachment.

Choosing your Backing Board

It is important to consider the backing board for your panels. In a shower area, water can seep into the joints so the backing board will soak up the water. Standard plasterboard is not great in this situation.

Most installers will use either:

Moisture resistant plasterboard. Usually identifiable by a green facing paper. This is better in humid situations but is not waterproof.

Cement or tile backer board. This is much more water resistant and commonly used behind tiled and paneled showers where leaking would be expensive.

It will depend on how exposed the wall is, how you are joining the panels and what your panel manufacturer recommend. A wall behind a freestanding bath won’t be as exposed as shower enclosure.

If you are looking to compare panels before choosing your backing board, have a look at the range available here. Floors To Walls Shower Panel Each panel will show you what thickness and fixing method is required so you know what your surface needs to be.

Tools and Materials

You don’t need to have a huge amount of tools but having the correct ones will ensure you get a neat job.

• Tape Measure, Spirit Level & Pencil
• Fine toothed hand saw or fine blade jigsaw
• Drill with hole saws for pipework
• Notched glue spreader if required
• Cartridge gun & Neutral cure sanitary silicone
• Panel trims, Corner & Edge profiles if required
• Masking tape, Sharp knife & Clean cloth

Panels are commonly supplied in a size of 2400mm high x 1000mm wide. You will not need to cut too much from the top in a standard wall. Always purchase a little more than you need as if you accidentally cut around a pipe, you can’t save it.

Layout

Dry fit your panels. Start by laying them out so you have the least slivers. Sliver cuts look odd and are difficult to secure. If the wall isn’t an exact multiple of the panel size, cut each end in half.

Mark where the studs are on the floor and ceiling using a pencil. If fixing through the panels, this will help to locate your screws. If gluing to the board, it will just remind you where your fixings are.

Plan out where your joints will be. Try to avoid vertical joints directly behind the showerhead. If possible. The wettest part will always be the most likely to leak.

Cutting

Measure each panel to fit the wall. As floors/ceilings aren’t always perfectly level. Mark on the back of the panel using a pencil and straight edge. Cut using a fine toothed saw. Support the panel on both sides.

For any holes around pipework, drill a pilot hole and cut using a hole saw or jigsaw. Leave a little extra when cutting to allow for movement. A small gap around any pipework will be covered by a collar or sealed with silicone. This will still need to be there as the panel can crack if it is tightly against the pipe due to expansion and contraction.

Sand down any sharp edges with fine sandpaper. Any burrs will cause a leak.

Glued Panels

Clean and dry the plasterboard. Follow the instructions from your glue manufacturer. Apply in vertical lines or using a notched spreader. Press the panel into place firmly starting from the corner.

Use masking tape or temporary supports to keep the panel in place until the glue sets. Wipe off any excess immediately as once set it will be difficult to remove from the decorative surface.

Screwed or Batten Systems

Pre drill holes slightly larger than the shank of the screw to allow movement. Use the fixings provided or recommended by the manufacturer. Don’t over tighten.

Movement

Timber doesn’t have a fixed size. It will expand and contract depending on the moisture and temperature. New studs can also shrink slightly as they dry. Leaving a small expansion gap (as per your manufacturers instructions) will allow movement between the panels and frame. Flexible sealant will be used around the edges.

Joints, Corners & Sealing

Joints are what will make your panelled wall waterproof so take your time. Tongue and groove or interlocking joints should be dry fitted and glued or sealed as per your system. Where panels meet a bath, shower tray or worktop, apply a flexible sealant.

Use neutral cure sanitary silicone on clean dry surfaces. Use a profiling tool or gloved finger to smooth. Once applied, wait the time recommended on the cartridge before using the shower. If used too early, you could ruin your perfect bead.

Corner trims can be used for internal/external corners. These will hide the cut edge and will be much more forgiving if you have made small cutting errors.

Common Mistakes

Most issues with a timber stud wall are due to not preparing the area. Common mistakes include:

• Fitting panels to a bowed frame.
• Using standard plasterboard in a wet area without sealing or backing.
• Not using noggins, so there is no solid surface to attach any shower fittings or shelves.
• Fitting panels too tight against the ceiling/floor with no movement.
• Applying sealant to wet/dusty edges. This will fail within a few months.

If you are still trying to decide on your overall scheme for your room, this guide will give you some ideas. Bathroom Renovation Ideas.

Planning, Ordering & Advice

When ordering, tell your supplier how high your wall is, how wide each run is and note any fixtures. Ask if the panels are suitable for a plasterboard stud wall in a shower. Companies like Floors To Walls will usually be able to advise you on what size panel, trims and fixings you will need based on your wall description. Ask for a sample so you can test how it cuts and sealant bead looks.

Top Tip

Your finish will be largely decided before you even fit your first panel. Use a straight edge to check your frame. Choose a suitable board for the wet area. Add noggins where you will have fixtures. Dry fit all your panels. Leave a gap for movement. Apply neutral cure silicone to clean surfaces. Don’t use your shower until the sealant has fully cured. A flat, dry, well supported stud wall will hold your panels for years with very little maintenance.